SoCA Rockclimbing

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eubi
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SoCA Rockclimbing

#1

Post by eubi » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:28 pm

Here's a photo of a Johnson Valley rock climbing trip about three years ago. This little kid is now over 6', taller than me!

As I look at the photo, I can see I made I minor error setting up the rope! Can anyone spot it? Oops!

And yes, I always am the first one up any route that I set up. If it can hold my fat a$$, it can hold the Scouts!
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gon2srf
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#2

Post by gon2srf » Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:16 pm

eubi wrote:Here's a photo of a Johnson Valley rock climbing trip about three years ago. This little kid is now over 6', taller than me!

As I look at the photo, I can see I made I minor error setting up the rope! Can anyone spot it? Oops!

And yes, I always am the first one up any route that I set up. If it can hold my fat a$$, it can hold the Scouts!
Well the fact that neither of the belays are even looking at the climber kind of freaks me out. :o The line is not taut but it looks to be an easy ascent. I can't tell if the line is even run through a belay device or whether the belays are anchored?
Not it? What did I miss?
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Cnynrat
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#3

Post by Cnynrat » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:44 am

I'd make sure the gate on the biner holding the pulley is facing away from the rock, even with a locking biner. I suspect that may be the minor error he's talking about.

While it's always good for the belayer to watch the climber, it's also true that in many situations you can't see the climber anyway. So, you need to be able to belay by "feel". When the climber peels off the rock you can usually tell by the associated screams and the sudden tension on the rope.

I'm sure the rope is going through a belay device on the harness of the guy in the white helmet. If it isn't, the climber isn't on belay! :o
Last edited by Cnynrat on Wed Sep 24, 2008 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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gon2srf
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#4

Post by gon2srf » Wed Sep 24, 2008 11:33 am

Cnynrat wrote:I'd make sure the gate on the biner holding the pully is facing away from the rock, even with a locking biner. I suspect that may be the minor error he's talking about.

While it's always good for the belayer to watch the climber, it's also true that in many situations you can't see the climber anyway. So, you need to be able to belay by "feel". When the climber peels off the rock you can usually tell by the associated screams and the sudden tension on the rope.

I'm sure the rope is going through a belay device on the harness of the guy in the white helmet. If it isn't, the climber isn't on belay! :o
Are viewing this site in standard blue Dave? I'm pretty sure I am not seeing the whole photo. I cannot view the rope hold in my screen. No attachment, pulley, biner, nothing?

Edit: Just switched to OAUSA blue and now I can scroll over and see the whole photo including the pulley and biner, that helps?
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eubi
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#5

Post by eubi » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:55 pm

OK, good observations, you guys know your stuff.

Yeah, I was noticing the gate on the locking biner facing the rock. Actually, the biner could not touch the rock, as it was set about 12 feet up the route, behind me. I was standing on a pocket ledge when I took the photo. Yes, I had a safety line on!

I was using a gri gri as a belay device, and the gri gri was set directly to the lower anchors. I use a minimum of three separate anchors, with the load between the three anchors equalized using a chordellete. The belayer clips in next to the gri gri. If the climber falls, the full force of the shock is taken by the anchors, not the belayer. Even if the belayer is asleep at the switch, the gri gri will still lock up and arrest the fall.

The climb progresses from right to left. The climber had to cross the rope, and that's when the biner inverted.

The belayer was learning, and yes, he should have been watching the climber. He was watching in all the other photos I took! You caught him (and me) napping.
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OLLIE
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#6

Post by OLLIE » Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:21 pm

Very good info... ;)
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cowboy4x4
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#7

Post by cowboy4x4 » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:43 pm

I have been climbing for 29 years, are there many rock climbers here that wheel as well ?
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gon2srf
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#8

Post by gon2srf » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:55 pm

cowboy4x4 wrote:I have been climbing for 29 years, are there many rock climbers here that wheel as well ?
Well I still have some gear left but I wouldn't call myself a real rock climber anymore, too outta shape. The pictures that Dionysus posted sure looked fun.
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bpenn1980
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Re: SoCA Rockclimbing

#9

Post by bpenn1980 » Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:39 am

I'm with gon2surf. Have all the kit still, but I dont rock climb too much these days. More into climbing Class III/IV stuff in the Sierras during Fall/Winter/Spring.

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